By Suzanne Holloway
World Staff Writer
I first visited the Silver Flame when it was barely a week old and still in its shakedown period. That doesn’t allow much time for management to straighten out the quirks and kinks. On a recent weeknight I returned to see what changes experience had brought.
The first good omen: the sole wasn’t cooked to oblivion as it was on my original order. It was moist and the flesh was firm. Service was smoother and our waiter was more knowledgeable.
Siiver Flame is a Middle Eastern steak house with seafood and chicken entrees for variety. Dinner is preceded by an array of Lebanese appetizers, almost enough for a meal without the entree. The kitchen excels with beef.
Huge Middle Eastern urns and other intricately engraved pieces fill the entrance. Once Swiss-style restaurant, fire dining room is _____ mix of styles, combining a cathedral ceiling, bronze chandeliers and dark molding with a mini water fall and Lebanese decorative objects. Tables are dressed with white cloths, red napkins and votive candles, needed for menu reading in the subdued lighting. Ambience and dress appear informal.
A tray of vegetables and hummus dip start the parade of appetizers. The pureed garbanzo beans and sesame seed paste is seasoned with lemon Juice, garlic and a pinch of cumin.
Tabouli, a tart lemony salad, is refreshing. It is dotted with finely chopped tomatoes, parsley and cucumbers but less bulghur is used and the tabouli is more moist than usual. Barbecued ribs are not very meaty or flavorful.
The cabbage roll is the star. A filling of ground meat and rice has the lovely scent of cinnamon. Middle Eastern cooks add only a whiff to meats but it is enough to add mysterious flavor.
On top of all this, a green salad, baked potato and very good bread with homemade texture come with entrees. For the dinner salad, crisp salad greens are tossed with a tart vinaigrette.
The Caesar salad mystified me. Romaine, usually a crisp and sturdy lettuce, was limp, as if had been intentionally wilted. Freshly grated cheese added a finished touch to the good traditional Caesar dressing.
French onion soup has a delicious crust of cheese and the broth is well seasoned, except for an overdose of salt. Lemon butter enhanced the subtle flavor of sole. The lightly broiled fillets were moist and the texture was flaky but firm.
A club steak was tender and savory with Middle Eastern seasonings. The T-bone and prime rib are top cuts. Shish kebab is a winning entree combining choice tender chunks of tenderloin with vegetables. Chateau Briand is served with bernaise sauce and vegetables.
Our service was attentive but sometimes no waiters were in sight. It is awkward, too, for diners to find no one at the entrance or in the dining room to greet or seat them. Attention to details in the kitchen and dining room make a difference.
Pianist Don Paul plays in the piano bar from 9 p.m. to close. Wednesday through Saturday. Abdul Alhlou, an owner/manager, has had experience at other Tulsa Lebanese steak houses and the Harvard Club.
1 (16 ounce) can of garbanzo beans
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
1/2 CUP Olive oil
1/2 cup sesame seed paste
Combine all ingredients in blender or food processor. Blend until smooth. Serve with crisp vegetable sticks.